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| Canal de la Reina |
Up to the outbreak of the Second World
War, according to her short overview of Quiapo's history, Margarita de los Reyes-Cojuangco writes that the inextricably linked esteros of Manila gave the
city the claim of being an "Oriental Venice."
And I am one of those who ask, "What happened?"
Supposedly, there is a diverse database from which to draw the answer to my question, according to the essay, The Changes Through Time in Quiapo's Esteros by William E. Reynolds and Evelyn J. Caballero
(Quiapo: Heart of Manila, edited by Fernando Nakpil Zialcita). This is comprised of historical documents dating from the
Spanish period, magazine articles and professional papers, maps from the
Spanish period to the present, interviews with Quiapo residents, and data on
the pollution of esteros. Whew!
Anyway, esteros are the broadened seaward end
or extension of a river. They contain a mixture of fresh water from the river
and salt water from the sea, and their water levels rise and fall with the
tide. Throughout Manila's history, some thirty-five esteros totalling about
twenty-one kilometers have been flowing into or have been associated with the
Pasig River.
Produce from the farms of the suburbs
accessible via the waterways was brought to Divisoria on boats, such as bancas
and cascos that plied the esteros, which are now replaced by pedicabs and
kuligligs that compete with other motor vehicles on the city's already
congested streets.
In Noli Me Tangere, Jose Rizal wrote
that the esteros served as bath, sewer, means of transportation, as well as for
laundry and fishing -- "and even drinking water, if the Chinese water
carrier found it convenient."
Historical records support Rizal's
observations. They indicate that, indeed, during the Spanish era, practically
all human refuse, garbage, and manufacturing wastes generated in the area found
their way into the esteros. Obviously, the Spanish government was already burdened
by this problem.
Spanish doctors, on the other hand,
correlated many diseases with the amount of garbage and refuse being dumped
into the esteros. Reports of epidemic had taken place, especially during the
dry season when the water level was very low, exposing the bottom of the
esteros. Medical authorities attributed the raging smallpox epidemic in Manila
to the miasmas released by the water and mud in the esteros that were in the
state of putrefaction.
The Spanish government developed a
public sewer system, though limited in scope, that crisscrossed some of the
more densely populated areas. However, liquid easily escaped through the loose
slabs of stone that made up the drains. Also, a large number of drains from
private houses emptied directly into the esteros. These rendered the esteros a
serious health hazard.
Many programs were created by the
Spanish government to improve the estero system, but insufficient funding
prevented the construction of an underground sewer system. Unfortunately, the esteros
were the only way to keep the city of Mania clean. After the Philippine
Revolution, the American colonial government did what it could to correct this
growing problem.
The esteros are a natural component of
Manila. Before the area was heavily populated, the tides and seasonal changes
refreshed the natural environment. When Manila became a major city, esteros
acquired new uses. They became a means of transportation, communication, and
regrettably, waste disposal.
Hence the people of Manila killed the
city's estero system.
To date, the problem goes unresolved.
As a Manila Times editorial had pointed out last September:
What little remains of canals or
esteros will soon fade into memory. Eighty percent of esteros in Metro Manila,
all bearing historic names, have drowned in human and commercial waste or taken
over by squatters or small businesses.
Residents and transients have
transformed our rivers, lakes, bays and canals into their personal toilet or
kitchen sink. Squatters living on the riverbanks, coastal walls and lakeshores
have no qualms throwing personal and family trash into waterways.
Most factories, plants, industrial and
commercial establishments treat our rivers and lakes as an extension of their
business activity.
The government, for decades, has
talked a lot about rescuing the Pasig River and Manila Bay—to name two bodies
of waters—and has rehabilitated them in fits and starts, with negligible
results.
Nonetheless, despite the great
damage we had created to our canal system, I am also one of those who ask,
"Can we still fully rehabilitate our esteros and perhaps, make Manila the
Oriental Venice as it once was?"
Suggested reads:
Manila Bulletin: New Life for Manila Estero
Manila Standard: Clearing of squatters that clog Manila's waterways
Philippine Star: Where do we go from here
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